Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Simply Summer



When these long, hot summer days come along there is very little to do but take inspiration from the sun.  The sun provides light, it provides heat and it helps grow all those wonderful berries and stone fruits showing up at farmer’s markets across the country.  Not to mention we are in that hotter than heck two-month (or more if you live in the Midwest) period where temperatures hang out around one hundred degrees and I feel like doing scarcely as little as possible.

If I had my choice I would lay around in the grass most days, taking naps and occasionally waking to plop a cherry into my mouth, continue reading a book from the place I nodded off and simply enjoy the breeze coming off the river.  My eyes would remain at half-mast for as long as possible, halfway between blissful sleep and wild, imaginative journeys the mind takes while in that semi-conscious state.  These are the perfect days for picking out shapes from the clouds and for letting ice cream melt down the cones and down your wrist before you have time to lap it all up.  Though, they may be hot, these are some of my favorite days in the year.

The reality is I have to go to work and am not lounging about any yards or fields near any significant bodies of water.  I am looking at the river from the train in the mornings and planning the next pastry to bake while also entertaining Siena as she continues to grow.  The weekends are the time for play and certainly none more than a summer weekend.  If the grill doesn’t heat up in the backyard I feel it’s a missed opportunity.  Grilled vegetables fresh from the farm stand are heaven, particularly squash, onions and corn on the cob.  Marinated in olive oil, balsamic vinegar and herbs, each vegetable sings. 

We have no shortage of fresh produce about the house since I’ve taken to our weekly, Saturday morning strolls down to the market to “gather” Siena’s latest baby food conquest.  The yellow vegetables and fruits are swiftly moving through our house as her appetite increases.  “Greens” are next on the horizon as we continue the adventure learning what does and doesn’t interest a six month old palette.  So far we haven’t come up against anything adverse (other than cereal), but I’m sure there will be some things she is less fond of than others.  While I’m looking for her lunch and dinner, scrutinizing every stall and chatting with the farmers/farm workers, all the beautiful fruits call to me…a siren song of longing, urging me to drown in the fresh, sweet juices.

There is nothing better than summer fruit.  Being able to pick up a raspberry or blueberry, pop it in my mouth and feel the sunshine dancing across my tongue is something I fantasize about when the ground is hard and covered in snow.  The season moves very quickly and if I’m not careful I will miss any number of special fruits cropping up.  I know I can (and should be) freeze them, but at the moment I’m very interested in what I can make and eat right now.  Who wants to think of winter when it’s 95 degrees in the shade?  The berries are here, now and I want to consume them all.  Apparently I learned nothing from the squirrel that plays all summer without storing nuts for the winter.

After our trip to the Rockefeller State Park a few weeks ago I had raspberries on the brain.  But strangely, when Siena and I arrived at the farm stand, we didn’t see any of the ruby red beauties.  I looked at several of the vendor’s stands and they were nowhere to be found…until I saw a sign for them paired with pints of blackberries.  Upon closer inspection it was confirmed they were indeed raspberries, but black raspberries instead of red.  They were so sweet and delicate I couldn’t resist.  Red berries be damned, I’ll take the black variety any day.  They seemed less tart than the red and reminded me of a blackberry (which I love), and it was then I remembered we used to pick both kinds off the thorny bushes out behind the tool shed when I was a kid.

Just as I was leaving I passed by one smaller grower who had only a few pints of many different fruits.  There were currants and plums, apricots and large greenish-red globes looking not unlike grapes.  The sign next to them proclaimed “gooseberries”, but in my memory gooseberries were always chartreuse green and one of the most tart fruits I can recall eating.  Mom sweetened them with a lot of sugar when she made her pies, but these berries were strangely sweet and sour, tasting a bit like champagne grapes with a similar consistency and texture.  The bottom line is they were gorgeous and I had to have them too.  By the time I left the market, Siena barely had enough room left in her stroller to sit for all the produce suspended willy-nilly under the seat and along the handles.

Returning home I began to search for something to make with my lucky finds.  When fruit is as fresh as this, there is very little I want to do to them.  Simple preparations allow for appreciating their natural state.  I thought back to a couple months ago when I was looking for gooseberries for some tartlets I saw in Martha Stewart’s Pies and Cakes.  The recipe called for twice as many gooseberries as I had purchased at the market, but let us not forget the black raspberries.  They just about made up the difference so I decided to make a few gooseberry, a few raspberry and a few mixed berry tarts.

The base of the tarts are a creamy, sugary egg custard filling crisp flakey pate brisee crusts.  I seem to be pulling out the pate brisee a lot these days, but I can’t help myself.  The more I make the recipe the better I get, and if I ever want to arrive at the perfect pie crust then practice is the thing I must do, and who doesn’t love to eat crust?  I’m certain I could eat dough and crust every single day of the week and never get tired of it.  I’m not going to put it to a test in an attempt to preserve my bathing suit waistline, but feel confident I’m not wrong.  The crust gets “blind baked” in the oven, is allowed to cool and then filled with the berries and custard before returning to the oven.  These are the perfect summer dessert to serve at a dinner party and each one will both fill your guests up and leave them wanting more.  The recipe is as follows:

Mixed Berry Custard Tartlets (Adapted from a recipe in Martha Stewart’s Pies and Cakes)

Ingredients:

All-purpose flour, for dusting
1 recipe Pate Brisee
2 large whole eggs plus 1 large egg yolk
1/3 cup plus 1/2 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1-cup heavy cream
4 cups fresh green gooseberries (about 2 pints), trimmed
4 cups fresh black raspberries (about 2 pints)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough about 1/8 inch thick.  Cut out eight 6-inch rounds, and fit each round into a 4-inch tart pan with a removable bottom.  Fold edges under, and press dough into sides of tart pans.  Refrigerate or freeze until firm, about 30 minutes.

Pierce bottoms of shells all over with a fork.  Transfer pans to a rimmed baking sheet.  Line shells with parchment, and fill with pie weights or dried beans.  Bake until pale golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes.  Remove weights and parchment.  Let cool completely on a wire rack.

Whisk together whole eggs, egg yolk, and 1/3-cup sugar in a small bowl.  Pour in cream, whisking until combined.

In two separate bowls, toss gooseberries and raspberries each with 1/4 cup sugar.  Pile sugar-covered berries into tart shells (a scant 1 cup per tart), and slowly pour in custard (about 1/4 cup per tart).  Dip a pastry brush into each custard filling, and lightly brush onto edges of shell.  Sprinkle tops evenly with sugar.

Bake until custard is just set and gooseberries/raspberries are soft, about 35 minutes.  Transfer tartlets to a wire rack to cool 15 minutes.  Serve warm.


I made these at night after Siena had gone to bed both for the ability to string several minutes together to complete the task as well as it was no longer abominably hot inside the kitchen.  If I knew how to grill the tarts I would have, but that’s a skill I’m yet to possess.  At midnight, when it’s nice and quiet and cool, I am able to share some undivided time with my kitchen stove even in the middle of a heat wave.  I wanted the tartlets ready for the following morning so they could accompany us on Siena’s first trip to the beach!

It is a rare occurrence indeed when we make it to the beach.  I’m not sure whether it’s the sand, the heat or the driving time that keeps us from going more often.  Brian is particularly fair of skin and isn’t one to go out in the sun a whole lot, but I on the other hand am one of those sun worshipers.  I don’t lay out as much as I used to…I know it’s bad for me, but there is nothing more lovely than freshly bronzed skin and a good dose of vitamin D.  Sitting in the direct light with a good book, sweat running down your skin in rivulets, cool beads dripping off a cold glass of iced tea is the ideal way for me to spend a summer day.  This is something easily accomplished in the backyard, but going to the beach is a whole other affair, a destination and one that requires careful planning.


I never saw the ocean until I was out of high school, which seems a little crazy in hindsight, but we were landlocked in the middle of the country so it makes sense.  The first real impact the ocean made on me was driving fourteen hours with my friend’s Lisa and Kathryn to get to Pensacola Beach, Florida.  We spent a rather nutty, frolicing few days beach combing, bar hopping and the general mischief making one does in their early twenties.  We arrived at dawn with the pink sky still kissing the water and empty boats gently moving up and down on the waves.  Hilariously, there was a hurricane that week and the water became violent, full of monstrous swoons.  I couldn’t believe the power of the grey, stormy sea and was too young to doubt I would get into any harm riding up and down on the swells like a crazy person.  That’s when I first fell in love with the ocean.

I have since been to the ocean many times and in many weather conditions including a separate hurricane we found ourselves in Mexico, summer 2005.  The weather gods must be hunting me down for some ill I performed in a past life.  On a good day, there is nothing like the soothing, repetitive crash made by the lapping water, foaming, splashing and bringing all sorts of shells and little creatures to the surface of the sand.  Our day at Point Lookout beach in Long Island was more like that…lots of sun, lots of cooling breezes and lots and lots of people! 


It was perfect beach weather, breezy, 80 degrees with low humidity.  Everybody and their brother wanted to spend their day the exact same way as us and apparently they managed to do it too.  The traffic out to Long Island is notoriously bad on a regular day, but on an immaculately conceived beach day such as this the lines to get to the parking lots within a half a mile of the beach itself were twenty minutes long and followed with the trumped up charge of over twenty dollars to park.  Talk about a scam.  I’m not sure where all that money is going, but someone must be adding onto his or her mansion somewhere.  Money aside, once we actually made it to the beach everything was smooth sailing, so to speak.  There were colorful umbrellas as far as the eye could see and everyone from the largest to smallest framed person was lounging about in the minimum the law would allow.  I, being more of a modest person, was happier to keep my shirt on, eat pastries and judge everyone else…I didn’t say I was always nice.

We brought a large red umbrella; blankets and some sunscreen ready to spend a few hours and see how well Siena would take to the water.  The short answer is she didn’t.  The Atlantic was so cold, even after all the warm days we’ve had.  As soon as she dipped a teeny-tiny toe into the water she began to cry.  The same went for Brian and myself, so the family opted to hang out under the umbrella, eat chicken fingers and fries from the food cart and watch all the extra thin, well built youths casually play some form of volleyball in an effort to display how hard they worked at the gym and how little good food they must eat.  Am I jealous?  Yes.  Can I stop eating butter and dairy?  No.  It’s a very simple equation.


After several hours of people watching and wave listening, Siena was exhausted and so were we.  And I’m still not sure why it now takes us 30 minutes to pack up our things and walk a quarter of a mile to the car, but it is increasingly becoming a pattern.  Having a child has certainly slowed down our entries and departures. There are so many toys to make sure we didn’t forget, diapers, blankets, bottles, the baby…I’m still amazed any of us is able to grow up and become a functioning adult that moves at regular speed.  I think it’s a little harder too because we are used to New York City street pace.  If you aren’t making a mad dash to get to your next destination then you must not be doing anything of importance.  I can certainly say it is important to move slow and never forget the bink.

Another trip to the farmer’s market last weekend yielded a nice crop of peaches.  I’d been keeping an eye on them the past few weeks.  So far they had either seemed under-ripe or had a lot of holes in them.  This was finally the week for the fragrant smell wafting off the stone fruit, heavy for it’s size but with flesh that gives.  There is something magical about a peach.  The color of the skin, the soft sheen, it has a seductive quality and never more so than eating one right out of hand with juice flying all over the place.  Cast me out from Eden, I have sinned and I don’t even care that it wasn’t an apple.

I had never made an upside-down cake before.  I’ve seen them done many times, often with caramelized rings of pineapple as the feature.  In my Internet scouring for peach recipes I came across one for an upside-down peach cake that also contained a hint of lavender.  Lavender is finishing up its bloom time in my backyard, but I have a canister of dried flowers in the pantry I like to break out every once in awhile for that mysterious, “something special” kind of flavor. 

This recipe also intrigued me because it calls for a cup of cornmeal or polenta.  I absolutely adore polenta or a nice golden cornbread so it seemed an interesting flavor profile to mix in with the peaches and herbs, I’ve gotta say I haven’t had such rave cake reviews in awhile.  I’m not sure if it was the strange combination of ingredients, the extra moist cake (full of butter and cream) or the memory sense trigger of ripe summer peaches, but everyone seemed very excited by this simple little cake.  The only thing you need to have on hand is an iron skillet.  Many people have grandma’s seasoned skillet squirreled away in the back of their pantry or closet somewhere and this is the perfect opportunity to bring it back to life and out into the light.


The recipe says you can use either fresh or dried lavender, but I’ve only ever worked with the dry.  If you have trouble finding it and would like to order some you can score a tin here, at Dean and Deluca’s website. 

Skipping the salty air for good old fresh town air we took Siena over for a “play-date” with Mia, our friend Izabella and Jonathan’s daughter.  She just turned one and is going to have a party next weekend, one in which I will be learning how to make lion faces to go on top of cupcakes.  I can’t wait!  Mia has a pool in her backyard and we thought it a great excuse to get the girls (and ourselves) together for a sunny Sunday afternoon.  Again, Siena didn’t seem too sure about the water at first.  Mia was splashing and having fun and Siena wasn’t sure what to make of it, but sometimes “second time” is the charm and once she was in and chewing on plastic toys, a favorite pastime of hers, she happily sat in the water and played for at least a half an hour.  Granted there were only a couple of inches of water for obvious reasons, but the girls seemed to have a grand old time while the adults were able to sit around casually, for the most part, and eat fresh watermelon and plums (and tequila drinks).


Summer is about sitting.  Summer is about eating.  Summer is about sharing your days and nights with friends and family out on the patio with the grill blazing or loaded up to the moon with toys to take to the beach.  Summer is about letting yourself unwind at least for a few minutes everyday, taking off your sandals (as not to get tan-lines) and feeling our bodies and minds warmed up. 

It’s this same carefree attitude that can make work so hard during this time of year, especially when you’re mind is already daydreaming on a sunny patch of grass somewhere or a sandy beach in the Grenadine Islands (oh Mustique how I miss you).  It’s essential to take the little summer moments where you can find them, whether on a park bench in the blazing afternoon sun or by popping a fresh picked peach into your mouth.   I’m learning to slow down a bit and relish these moments, much more than I used to.  Relax on the beach with a peach and you’ve got nothing to worry about.  I’m learning how.  It’s just who I am.

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Sweet, Sweet Victory


The path of least resistance is the one most often taken, but not necessarily the road to victory.  Depending on your activity this choice could take the form of an easy or difficult trail to hike in the woods or winning the war of freedom for a country or a state.  In this case, I’m really talking about all three.  This week the struggle of life is realized in a literal hike through a nature preserve, and both historic events of celebrating our country’s independence and the “win” in our battle for equality on a state level.

The past two weeks have been full of changes big and small, and I don’t mean of the coin variety.  Siena has finally started to eat solid food!!  I never thought it would happen.  After her strong dislike for cereal (rice and oatmeal) I was worried she would never move on to something more substantial than Enfamil, but as luck and genetic timetables would have it, she likes sweet potatoes!!  My place of employment had given us a baby food maker as a present when Siena was first born, and I am finally able to put it to good use.  It steams and purees foods all in one and the sweet potato was my first experiment.

I’ve always promoted buying local foods as much as possible, and the thought of making my daughter’s food is very appealing.  I’m not saying I’m going to be able to make everything that goes into her mouth, I certainly don’t make all the toys she chews on these days, but for now, while it’s simple things like one or two vegetables or fruits at a time, it seems criminal not to make fresh food for her.  I love the beba (the baby food machine)!!!  After a very long and patient meal with her, Siena finally began to grasp eating food from the spoon and began an animalistic lunge for said spoon as time went on, getting sweet potatoes all over her, me, the bib, the highchair and everywhere in between.  But she likes it!!!

An even bigger change that came was the passage of law in New York State allowing same sex couples to get married!  This is obviously historic for many reasons, but a major one being the law passed on the anniversary of Stonewall, what many consider to be the beginning of the gay rights movement.  Excerpt from Wikipedia:  “The Stonewall riots were a series of spontaneous, violent demonstrations against a police raid that took place in the early morning hours of June 28, 1969, at the Stonewall Inn, in the Greenwich Village neighborhood of New York City. They are frequently cited as the first instance in American history when people in the homosexual community fought back against a government-sponsored system that persecuted sexual minorities, and they have become the defining event that marked the start of the gay rights movement in the United States and around the world.”  Tired of getting beaten up for being who they were (homosexuality was considered both a crime and a mental disorder for many years), rioters took a stand to say “we are people too, just like you”, and the wigs began to fly!

It’s strange for me to think about this very important beginning.  Growing up in a small town where I definitely couldn’t be publicly gay without fear of violence, it was a scary existence.  The reason I moved to New York was to seek the famed Land of Oz where I could be myself, lost in a crowd of millions who didn’t care what I said or did publicly or privately.  Moving here is still the best choice I ever made for my safety and sanity, and made all the other wonderful things in my life possible.  Though I would have loved for New York to be the first state to legalize same-sex marriage, I’m happy that it has done it at all.  New York is a large, conservative state of which the city is only a part.  NYC is obviously very liberal, but the rest of the state needed a lot of convincing and I’m very, very happy and thankful to all those people out there who put time and effort into changing the political mindset.  One of the big supporters was HRC, the Human Rights Campaign, an organization I support every month.  If you would care to donate and continue the fight you can go here:  http://www.hrc.org/


With all that said, I felt it very important for me to honor this time with a pastry fitting the historic occasion.  The last week in June is always set aside as “Pride” weekend in NYC.  June is pride month, but the city comes together on the last weekend to have the big, crazy, outlandish and magical parade.  They chose this weekend because of the proximity to the Stonewall incident and have been having the parade every year since 1970, sparking other parades and festivities all around the world.  I wasn’t able to attend the parade this year due to fatherly duties, but I was there in spirit.  My offering is the Rainbow Cake. 

The rainbow flag is closely associated with the struggle for equality amongst the LGBT community.  It exemplifies diversity as well as peace, and Dorothy Gale knew better than anyone that something important existed over that rainbow.  She went to Oz and realized she wanted to be home, and I moved to New York City and realized for the first time I was home.  But the honest truth is that home lives inside us all, the best parts of what we call home go with us wherever we go because as my friend Kathryn always used to tell me “no matter where you go, there you are.”  I remembered seeing the rainbow cake on the Martha Stewart Show awhile back, the context for it’s creation was a friend’s going away party, and additionally its something I think kids would adore.  For me, I took it as the patriotic and pastry-esque symbol of my right to be myself, for good or bad and to be treated as an equal.

This cake looks complex, but it really isn’t.  As with many of the things I create for Fabulous Pastries the only requirements are patience and baby steps.  What I love about this recipe is it’s one, simple vanilla cake batter that gets used for all the cakes.  The only difference comes when you add the food coloring.  There are six very thin layers here, and it’s ideal if you have six 9-inch cake pans (I know most people don’t) so you don’t have to cool and wash pans in-between baking.  The layers don’t take more than 15 minutes to bake so you aren’t in the hot summer kitchen for very long regardless.  I made a special trip to buy the food coloring, so I bought the extra pans I needed while I was at it, to make life easier.  You can find the link to the recipe here:  Rainbow Cake.


The real trick with this cake is making sure your layers are even.  Keeping the frosting consistent and level between each colored round is a bit challenging, but made easier by using a lazy Susan to continually rotate the cake around and make sure it’s even.  The colors were so rich and vibrant, made from food paste gels instead of the more liquid food coloring you find in the regular supermarket.  A little bit goes a very long way.  A simple kit of red, yellow, blue, green and black are all you need to get the desired color-scheme.  Though I loved the show-stopping spectacle this cake provided I also want to try using these colors in other cake recipes, possibly creating some subtle monochromatic red/pink or blue cakes. 

I don’t think I’ve ever had a cake so well received, not necessarily for the taste (though it was delicious) but for the sentiment behind it.  Vanilla and buttercream never fail to bring folks together.  All the people I work with, and really most everyone I’ve ever met in New York, were so supportive of the same-sex marriage law and I was happy to share the cake and our victory with them.  Now, if people would only stop asking me if I’m getting married!!!  I mean, I like a ring and a party as much as the next gal, but people give it a rest!!!!  (And thank you for acknowledging and asking).  I’m glad I now have the right to legally be with the person I choose.  It seems odd to me that Brian and I could adopt a child but not be able to marry before now.  We do live in a strange, strange world…

Speaking of more worldly issues (or at least a country-sized one), it’s the 4th of July!!!  Arriving home on the 8:34pm train out of Grand Central brought me to Ossining during the middle of the fireworks display.  I hadn’t planned on seeing any live fireworks this year because night falls way past Siena’s bedtime.  I love these long summer days and muggy nights full of fireflies, particularly the bright sparkly explosive ones coming out over the course of the holiday weekend.  The parking lot of the train station is on the Hudson River, and each year people gather starting in the late afternoon with their lawn chairs and picnic blankets.  Vendors set up their booths with hamburgers, hot dogs, fries and ice cream…all the quintessential American summer foods.  The bandstand gets going about an hour before the star-spangled show while the kids gather as close to the water as possible without falling in, waiting for the patriotic music, sparkling showers and loud bangs to begin. 


I discovered the train platform to be the perfect place to watch the show.  If you go down to the end of the platform, away from the lights and flying bugs, you’ll find an unobstructed view, an un-crowded view and one I wondered why most people weren’t taking advantage of?  I only stayed a few minutes, not wanting to risk seeing the finale and having to fight my way through the throngs of people during the mass exodus.  I made it away from the station and up the hill as the last of the fireworks made themselves known.  I saw just the right amount of the show and didn’t have to deal with a crowd.  All in all I would call it the perfect scenario.




That night I began preparation for my own personal, pastry related show:  Sour Cherry Pie.  I had been threatening to make a cherry pie for weeks.  Andrea and Nathan had announced their plans for a 4th of July get-together a little while back and the mouse in my brain began running on the wheel and turning over options for the perfect dessert to take to the potluck.  I read an article on cherries in the July 2011 Martha Stewart Living and realized I had never made a cherry pie before in my life.   Well, that was a situation needing immediate remedy.  Sour cherries are in season for a brief amount of time and I had been snacking on some in the office, ones that my friend Sara brought in from the Union Square Farmers Market.  They were delicious and precious because of their short seasonal run.  Thus began the more specific search for sour cherry pie recipes.

Narrowing it down further, did I want a top crust or open face…well, that was debatable?  I was interested in something pretty, something traditional and as always a chance to try out a technique I’ve never done before.  In the end a lattice top pie won out.  I’ve never done a lattice crust before, though I’ve seen it done many, many times.  It always looks complicated and beautiful, but as with most things is yet another series of simple steps.  Luckily, Martha has a visual step-by step in her Pies and Tarts book, helping to get me started on the right foot.  I always like to make my pie dough the night before so it has time to rest.  And like most pie and tart recipes I used pate brisee for the crust, yielding enough dough for the bottom and top of a 9-inch pie.

As with many things in my life, I find I don’t have as much time to complete them as I used to.  I never made it to Union Square Market, so I was determined Siena and I would get up and finally make it down to the Ossining Farmer’s Market which is held in the town square every Saturday morning.  The trick is to get there early…not a real problem with a baby in the house, but she is known to sleep in with her dads from time to time.  The morning dawned clear and bright (and hot).  We dressed as lightly as possible and strolled our way down to the stalls of people selling their fruit, vegetables, breads, cheeses, eggs, meats and everything else under the sun.  I always like buying food at the farmer’s market because I get to meet the people (or family members of the people) working hard to put food on my table.  Putting a face to a food product instead of mindlessly grabbing it off the shelf in the grocery store is something I’m always proud to do.

The cherries were there, waiting for us to take them home.  A small grouping of the most beautiful sour cherries were on display in the warm morning sunshine, glistening and fresh directly from their home on the trees.  There were so many beautiful fruits and veggies at the stand I wanted to take home, but I hadn’t really planned to take more than I could fit in the small shelf under the stroller seat.  We grabbed our cherries and setout to look for a few other items.  There were freshly made cheeses and ground beef from a farm in White Plains and eggs from further north in the Hudson Valley, all good things I might need to snack on over the holiday weekend.

With the crust dough ready and waiting, the only major chore left in creating a cherry pie is pitting all those cherries.  I went over many different recipes, looking for the best of the best ingredients called for in the most successful pies.  Some people liked to use vanilla in their pie, some used almond extract, some used lemon juice and all of them used fresh cherries whenever possible or the frozen equivalent if the cherries weren’t in season.  I decided a highbred might be nice so I developed my own filling recipe that starts with 2 pounds of pitted sour cherries.  Pitting cherries is a pain in the butt; there is no way around it so let’s not sugar coat the issue.  It’s something that needs to be done, a means to an end and one certainly worth the time.  Here is what I would call the ultimate summer cherry pie recipe, an adaptation of one of Martha Stewart’s recipes:

Sour Cherry Pie

Ingredients:

All-purpose flour, for dusting
Pate Brisee (recipe follows)
1 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch (more if berries are particularly juicy)
1/4-teaspoon salt
1/8-teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 pounds (about 6 cups) fresh sour cherries, pitted, or 1 3/4 pounds frozen sour cherries, partially thawed
1-teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg, lightly beaten, for egg wash
Coarse sanding sugar, for sprinkling

Start by making your pate brisee.

Pate Brisee Ingredients:

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1-teaspoon salt
1-teaspoon sugar
1-cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1/4 to 1/2 cup ice water

Pulse flour, salt, and sugar in a food processor (or whisk together by hand in a bowl).  Add butter, and pulse (or quickly cut in with a pastry blender or your fingertips) until mixture resembles coarse meal, with some larger pieces remaining.  Drizzle 1/4-cup water over mixture.  Pulse (or mix with a fork) until mixture just begins to hold together.  If dough is too dry, add 1/4 cup more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse (or mix with a fork).

Divide dough in half onto two pieces of plastic wrap.  Gather into two balls, wrap loosely in plastic, and press each into a disk using a rolling pin.  Refrigerate until firm, well wrapped in plastic, 1 hour or up to 1 day.  (Dough can be frozen up to 3 months; thaw in refrigerator before using.)

On a lightly floured surface, roll out 1 disk of dough to a 13-inch round, 1/8 inch thick.  Fit into a 9-inch pie plate, and trim dough, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang; refrigerate or freeze until firm, about 30 minutes.

On lightly floured parchment, roll out second disk of dough 1/8 inch thick.  Using a clean ruler as a guide cut 14 strips (about 1/2 inch wide) with a pastry wheel or sharp knife.  Place strips (and parchment) on a baking sheet, and refrigerate until firm, 10 minutes.

Combine granulated sugar, cornstarch, salt, and cinnamon in a large bowl.  Add cherries, vanilla, almond extract, lemon juice and toss.  Pour cherry mixture into pie plate.  Dot with butter.  Lightly brush exposed edge of shell with beaten egg.

Weave the lattice:  Lay 7 strips of dough across pie.  Fold back every other strip.  Lay another strip perpendicular in center of pie.  Unfold strips over perpendicular strip.  Fold back strips under perpendicular strip.  Lay second perpendicular strip next to first.  Unfold strips over second perpendicular strip.  Repeat, weaving strips across half the pie.  Return to center, lay a perpendicular strip on unwoven side of pie, and repeat.  Trim strips to 1-inch overhang.  Tuck overhang under edge of shell, and crimp to seal.  Brush lattice with egg wash, and sprinkle with sanding sugar.  Refrigerate or freeze 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Transfer pie plate to a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet.  Bake until crust is golden brown and juices are bubbling; if using fresh cherries, begin checking after 1 hour; if using frozen, about 95 minutes.  (If top browns too quickly, tent with foil.)

Transfer pie to a wire rack; let cool completely.  Pie can be kept at room temperature, tented with foil, up to 1 day.


The most difficult thing about making this pie, other than not getting confused with which strips to pull back and weave during lattice creation, is the July heat.  It’s been in the 90’s here and humid to boot.  The kitchen in our house seems to hold all the heat of the day and it is always best to work with chilled pie dough.  The recipe has several steps for letting the pie crust rest in the freezer, but if it’s really hot you may want to pop your pie into the fridge every few minutes or so, especially when working with the thin lattice strips.  Once they warm up, they get a little sticky and soft, so work quickly!  I used a decorative pastry cutter, giving the lattice pieces a nice fluted edge, and the key to keeping the shapes intact is to make sure you freeze your completed pie for a half an hour before baking it.  It’s similar to Christmas cookies; if you take all the time to cut out gorgeous shapes and put them in the oven without chilling you end up with a sad, blobby mess, and we don’t want sad, blobby cookies or pies.

By the time Sunday the 3rd rolled around the heat had dissipated somewhat, but the rain had begun to roll in.  Not necessarily the ideal weather to have when 50+ people are coming to your house and there is a giant pig roasting in the backyard.  Only Nathan would be so brave as to roast a whole pig, and only Andrea would be willing to invite that many people to their house, very young and active children in tow, to celebrate our country’s independence.  Luckily, by the time the party got into full swing, the rainy, swampy weather let up enough for everyone to roam about the lawn, the kids to play on the swing set and for all the manly men (and not so manly men) to gather around the giant roasting box topped with coal containing one gigantic pig.

I have to say I was a little nervous at how Nathan might pull this one off, but he did so with flying colors.  The pork was delicious and the guys had a lot of fun cutting it up.  The children and adults alike were both afraid and amused by the lone pig head sitting in the aluminum pan, cheeks carved up like something out of The Texas Chainsaw Massacre; truly a sight to behold.  Neighbors and town friends showed up with their designated potluck items:  casseroles, coleslaw, delicious jalapeno corn muffins, pies, cookies, chips and homemade ice cream.  If it wasn’t there on the table, we didn’t need it.  Andrea was so kind to save my pie a “star” spot on the buffet, elevating it with a lovely cake stand and making me feel like the belle of the pastry ball.  Everyone had a good time eating their fill and I got a lot of very nice compliments on the pie.  The only problem being that it was gone by the time Brian went to get any and cherry is his favorite (Sorry, honey…my public mea culpa.)

By the time the sun was setting, strangers were all friends, fingers and plates had been licked clean and all the children were making their way home to bed after an exciting day of play.  I have to say it’s nice having friends so close to our home willing to throw a big party, mess and all, but allowing us to sneak out without too much cleanup and providing picnic leftovers on top of it all.  I don’t think we could have had a better time.

On July 4th, we rested…well, not quite.  This was the big day!  Independence for all, including Siena’s stomach, the monumental day of the sweet potato and also the discovery of Rockefeller State Park.  This park/nature preserve is only about ten minutes from our house.  We had passed by its gates many times on the way to Stone Barns (our favorite country haunt).  The lands are adjacent to each other, but we had never swung that right turn into the park and had been meaning to for several years now.  Izabella and Jonathan had taken Mia not too long ago for a hike/stroll around the lake and came back with some beautiful photos.  The day was sunny and bright and seemed a shame not to do something fun on the actual holiday.

We had planned to hook up with Nathan, Andrea and Finn to have some leftover BBQ sandwiches, but they were knee deep in party recovery.  I suggested we all go to the park, but understandably they could not be swayed.  However, an 80-pound pig does tend to have some leftovers even after such a large party, so Andrea suggested stopping by to pick up some pork, coleslaw and cookies to make a picnic out of our park excursion.  I could hardly pass that up, so off we went for a little pork and a little afternoon lunch under the trees.

The park wasn’t at all what I was expecting.  When you think park you think a few picnic tables, a pavilion, maybe a playground or two, but this is a nature preserve.  Though it did have the requisite picnic tables not too far from the parking lot, the park is really miles and miles of hiking /carriage/horse trails leading over the river and through the woods, out into the wide open country.  We took a map from the gatekeeper and were off. 

I talk about fresh air from time to time in this blog, the country air I miss from childhood, the air that reminds me of playing in the woods with my cousins.  Well, this air is at Rockefeller State Park.   The place was fairly deserted, probably because most people were at the river or the beach so it felt like our own little world.  We walked along the lake and then off into the lush, green, overgrown forest of hills.  The air was as fresh as fresh can be and the place was just so alive.  Their were chipmunks crawling all over the place chasing bugs, squirrels were out causing their usual mischief and tons and tons of wild raspberry bushes flanked the trails with the first berries coming on…I think I know what ingredient I need to use next week. 

The map we were given was a copy and a little hard to read making the adventure all the more fun.  The further out we got, the slightly more directionally confused we became, but the disorientation and subtle possibility of being lost made it exciting and quest-like.  As we walked through the woods and fantasized about building a house far away from the rest of the world I realized it’s not impossible.   There are always choices to be made, it’s figuring out the goal in the first place that can be difficult.  I will have my Wee house in the woods someday, but until then we have miles of countryside we can roam very close to our city house.


Obviously the metaphor of “the path” is an often-used one, but it’s that way for a reason.  We are presented with paths and choices to make on a daily basis.  Sure, some of them are as simple as “what do I want for lunch” and some as big as what do I want for my life.  Some choices being even bigger than us such as granting independence and full rights to deserving citizens.  We all deserve the right to make choices for our families and ourselves.  It’s even better when the government supports the choices we make and allow us to live the best possible life we can.  


This Independence Day I’m thankful for more than our country’s revolt against the British, I’m thankful for our state’s revolt against those with closed and sometimes angry minds.  I’m also thankful for the little things such as delicious sweet potatoes encouraging our daughter to eat, and sour cherries that remind us why it’s best to eat ingredients when they are at their peak…and the red color looks awfully nice with a blue pie plate and a white dish- towel.  I’m all for having freedom of choice, both personal and aesthetic.  It’s just who I am.